Frequently Asked Questions – Home Repair
Siding
Repair
Does new siding need to be painted?
- Not always—but it depends on the type of siding you choose:
James Hardie ColorPlus® boards arrive factory‑finished with a baked‑on coating, so no extra painting is needed at installation.
Primed fiber‑cement (standard HardiePlank®), cedar, or other wood products do require paint or stain. Manufacturers recommend finishing fiber‑cement within about 180 days of installation—and sooner is better for sealing edges against moisture.
PVC, vinyl, and metal siding are color‑through materials that don’t need paint, though you can repaint them later for a fresh look.
Bottom line: if your siding isn’t factory‑finished, plan to paint or stain it shortly after installation to lock out moisture, extend its life, and validate most product warranties.
Does all LP siding need to be replaced?
Louisiana Pacific (LP) siding made between 1985 and 1995 was part of a class-action lawsuit and recall because it tends to hold moisture and break down over time. If you’re able to invest in a full replacement, that’s often the best long-term fix. But we also understand that timing and budget matter. If most of your siding is still in good shape and only a few areas are showing wear, KV Construction can help with partial replacement. We offer targeted repairs—removing just the damaged sections—so you can extend the life of your siding while planning for a full re-side down the road.
My Vinyl Siding Is Melting, but There Was No Fire—Why?
It’s a common (and frustrating) issue: vinyl siding that’s warping, bubbling, or even melting—without any fire nearby. The surprising culprit? Reflected sunlight. High-efficiency windows, especially those with low-E glass, can bounce concentrated rays onto nearby siding. On hot summer days, that reflected heat can exceed 200 degrees—well above the 160-degree threshold where vinyl starts to deform. If your siding is showing signs of heat damage and there’s a shiny window nearby, chances are, that’s the cause.
The Joints on My James Hardie Siding Aren’t Caulked—Is That Normal?
Yes, that’s actually how it’s supposed to be! James Hardie recommends not caulking the butt joints where two siding boards meet. Instead, a small piece of flashing—often called a “bearskin”—is installed behind each joint. This hidden metal strip helps keep water out while allowing the siding to expand and contract naturally. So if you don’t see caulk at those seams, don’t worry—it means your installer likely followed best practices.
The seams in my vinyl siding aren’t sealed—is that normal?
Absolutely. Vinyl siding is meant to shed water, not create a watertight seal. Installers cut each piece to fit snugly and overlap the joints, but they purposely leave them un‑caulked. Any moisture that sneaks behind the panels drains away on the weather‑resistant barrier underneath—exactly how the system is designed to work.
What is a targeted siding repair?
A targeted siding repair focuses only on the areas that actually need fixing. Instead of replacing all your siding, we carefully remove the damaged sections—like boards with rot, cracks, or warping—and blend in new material to match what’s already there. It’s a smart, budget-friendly way to handle minor issues without jumping into a full replacement. Some contractors may recommend a total re-side even when the damage is limited, but at KV Construction, we believe in honest solutions that work for your home and your wallet.
What is siding?
Siding—also called wall cladding—is the protective outer layer of your home. It’s what you see on the outside walls, and it plays a big role in shielding your house from weather, moisture, and everyday wear and tear. Besides protection, siding also adds style and curb appeal, giving your home its finished look.
What types of repair does KV Construction perform?
KV Construction specializes in exterior home repairs. Our services include siding, dry rot repair, flashing, leaks, roofing, window and door replacements, leak fixes, and both interior and exterior painting.
What type of siding do you recommend?
Here in the Pacific Northwest, where rain, moisture, and cold weather are part of everyday life, it’s important to choose siding that can handle the elements. Our top recommendation is James Hardie fiber cement siding—it’s specifically engineered for tough climates like Washington and holds up beautifully over time. If you prefer a more natural look, cedar siding is another solid option, offering durability with classic charm. We typically don’t recommend vinyl siding in this region, as it doesn’t perform as well in our wet, variable weather.
What’s cheaper—wood or vinyl siding?
In most cases, vinyl siding is more budget-friendly than wood, especially when compared to cedar. The most affordable option is hollow vinyl siding, which consists of basic interlocking panels. If you’re looking for a bit more durability and insulation, foam-backed vinyl is a step up—it costs a bit more due to the added material, but it offers better performance and energy efficiency.
Wood siding, on the other hand, typically comes with a higher price tag. Even the most affordable cedar options usually cost more than foam-backed vinyl. The final cost depends on the style, size, and quality of the wood you choose.
So, if you’re looking for a more cost-effective solution, vinyl is often the way to go. But if you love the look and feel of real wood—and are willing to invest a little more—wood siding can add timeless charm and value to your home. At KV Construction, we’ll help you weigh the pros and cons to find the best fit for your style and budget.
What type of siding lasts the longest?
While most siding materials can last a long time with proper care, some are naturally more durable and lower maintenance than others. Fiber cement, vinyl, and metal siding tend to outlast natural wood siding, even when wood is well-maintained.
Natural wood can be beautiful, but it’s also more vulnerable to moisture, pests, and the elements—especially in the Pacific Northwest. Even small imperfections in the grain can cause problems over time. On the other hand, manmade materials like fiber cement are more consistent and their longevity often comes down to the quality of installation.
James Hardie fiber cement siding is one of the longest-lasting options on the market. It comes with a 30-year warranty, and with proper care, it can last up to 50 years—more than double the lifespan of many other siding products, which typically last around 20 years.
At KV Construction, we specialize in installing siding that’s built to last. We’ll help you choose a material that fits your needs, climate, and budget—so your home stays protected and looks great for decades to come.
What types of siding are available for homes in the Pacific Northwest?
As a homeowner or property manager in the Seattle area, choosing the right siding means balancing durability, style, and protection against our wet climate. Here’s a breakdown of the most popular siding materials and styles you’ll find locally:
Common Siding Materials:
Fiber Cement (like James Hardie): Durable, fire-resistant, and built to handle the Pacific Northwest’s moisture-heavy weather. A top choice for longevity and low maintenance.
Vinyl: Affordable and widely used, vinyl is low-maintenance but may not hold up as well in areas with extreme moisture or temperature swings.
Wood/Cedar: Offers natural beauty and charm but requires regular upkeep to prevent rot or insect damage. Popular for traditional and rustic aesthetics.
Metal (aluminum/steel): Less common for residential homes, but used occasionally for modern or industrial designs due to its durability and resistance to pests.
Brick, Stone & Stucco: These are specialty materials that also act as siding but are typically more expensive and suited for certain architectural styles.
Popular Siding Styles:
Lap Siding: The most traditional and widely used. Horizontal boards that overlap to shed water effectively—ideal for our rainy Seattle climate.
Panel Siding: Large flat boards installed side-by-side. Common in more modern or commercial designs.
Shingle Siding: Small, overlapping pieces (usually cedar or fiber cement) that give a textured, handcrafted look.
Vertical Plank Siding: Includes styles like board and batten, channel siding, or tongue and groove. These can also be installed horizontally for a unique aesthetic twist.
At KV Construction, we specialize in helping Seattle-area homeowners find the perfect combination of material and style for their home’s design, climate needs, and long-term value. If you’re unsure where to start, we’re here to walk you through it.
How much does it cost to replace siding on a home in the Seattle area?
The cost of installing new siding can vary widely—anywhere from several thousand to tens of thousands of dollars—depending on a few key factors:
Material choice: Fiber cement (like James Hardie), vinyl, and cedar each come with different price points.
Style and design: More intricate styles, like shingle or board-and-batten, often require more labor and materials.
Size of the home: Larger homes or homes with complex architectural features will naturally need more siding and labor.
Existing damage: If we uncover dry rot, water damage, or outdated materials during removal, repairs may be needed before the new siding goes on.
While siding replacement is a major investment, it’s also one of the best ways to boost your home’s curb appeal, energy efficiency, and long-term value. The good news? There’s a wide range of options to fit different budgets.
At KV Construction, we work closely with homeowners across the Seattle area to find the right siding solution—balancing cost, durability, and style. We’re happy to walk you through pricing and provide a customized quote that makes sense for your home and your goals.
What is the most common siding material?
Fiber cement siding is currently the most widely used siding material across the country—and for good reason. It offers an ideal balance of durability, affordability, and versatility, making it a top choice for both new construction and remodeling projects.
Builders and homeowners alike prefer fiber cement because it stands up well to weather, resists pests, and requires less maintenance than wood. It also comes in a variety of styles and finishes, including pre-colored options or primed versions ready for paint—so it fits just about any home design.
The leading name in fiber cement siding is James Hardie, known for its high-quality products and 30-year warranty. At KV Construction, we specialize in James Hardie installations throughout the Seattle area and trust it as a long-lasting, weather-resistant solution that looks great for years to come.
What’s the best color to choose for siding in the Seattle area?
There’s no one-size-fits-all answer when it comes to siding color—it really depends on your style, your neighborhood, and even the natural surroundings. That said, many Seattle-area homeowners lean toward earth tones and soft neutrals like grays, blues, taupes, and warm browns. These shades complement our Pacific Northwest landscape and weather beautifully, while also blending well with surrounding homes and meeting HOA requirements when needed.
If you want your home to stand out, bolder or more personalized colors are definitely an option—especially if you’re using paintable siding like James Hardie primed boards. Want to go classic and understated? Pre-finished ColorPlus® siding comes in a curated range of timeless shades that are made to last.
At KV Construction, we help homeowners across Seattle find the perfect siding color that fits their taste, enhances curb appeal, and adds long-term value. Whether you’re looking for something that blends in or boldly stands out, we’ve got options to match every vision.
s it possible to install house siding on your own?
Technically, yes—but that doesn’t always mean it’s the best choice. Siding systems are complex and labor-intensive, requiring precise installation to perform as intended. For someone with no prior experience, achieving proper results can be extremely difficult. It’s much wiser to rely on a skilled and certified professional to ensure the job is done right than to risk costly mistakes with a DIY approach.
Can dry rot be covered or just painted over?
No—dry rot can’t simply be hidden with paint or covered up. It’s a type of fungus that spreads and weakens the wood from the inside out, and unless it’s completely removed, it will keep growing and causing damage. Painting over it might hide the problem for a little while, but it won’t stop the rot. Any trusted, licensed contractor will tell you the same: the only real fix is to cut out the affected wood and replace it properly. Covering it up is just asking for bigger (and more expensive) problems later.
Can you do siding and dry rot repairs in the rain?
Yes—we sure can. At KV Construction, we work year-round, rain or shine, because we know the Pacific Northwest doesn’t exactly wait for sunny days. Our skilled carpenters are used to the region’s wet weather and know how to handle repairs safely and properly, even when it’s drizzling. The only thing we hold off on during rain is painting, since it needs dry conditions. But don’t worry—we always use pre-primed materials, so your home stays protected until the paint can go on.
Do you need to lift my home to repair a sill plate or joist with dry rot?
No, lifting the entire home usually isn’t necessary. We can safely repair damaged sill or mud plates by working in sections and using temporary supports. This method lets us replace the rotted wood without the cost or hassle of lifting your house—keeping things simpler, safer, and more affordable for you.
How Do You Identify Dry Rot? What Are the Signs?
Dry rot isn’t always obvious at first, but there are some clear red flags to watch for:
Wood that looks darker, cracked, or shrunken
A musty, damp smell—especially near floors or walls
Paint that’s peeling or cracking around windows and doors
Wood that feels soft or gives easily when poked with a screwdriver
Floors in the kitchen or bathroom that feel “springy” or bouncy
Odd growth on wood surfaces that looks a bit like mushroom skin
Where Does Dry Rot Usually Show Up?
Dry rot tends to hide in places where moisture lingers. Common trouble spots include:
Siding, trim, window and door frames
Deck boards, framing, and support posts
Roof edges, eaves, and areas near leaky gutters
Kitchen and bathroom walls or floors
Crawl spaces, sill plates, cripple walls, and foundations
If you suspect dry rot in your home, it’s best to catch it early. The sooner it’s addressed, the easier (and less expensive) it is to fix.
How can you prevent dry rot in your home?
Dry rot happens when wood is exposed to moisture over time, creating the perfect environment for fungus to grow and eat away at the structure. The good news? There are several simple things you can do to help protect your home:
Make sure your attic and crawlspace are properly ventilated and insulated
Seal basement and crawlspace floors to keep ground moisture out
Check that flashing is installed correctly around decks, doors, porches, roofs, walls, and windows—water should be directed away from the wood
Keep wood siding, trim, and framing away from constant moisture sources like soil, concrete, or roofing materials
Stay on top of painting and caulking to seal out water
Keep gutters, drains, and downspouts clear so water doesn’t pool where it shouldn’t
And most importantly—don’t ignore signs of dry rot. Even a small spot can turn into a big (and expensive) problem if left untreated. Catch it early, and your home will thank you.
How does dry rot affect my property?
If dry rot is left untreated, it can quietly eat away at your home’s structure. Over time, the affected wood becomes weak and brittle, which can lead to serious damage—and in some cases, even compromise your home’s stability. What starts as a small, hidden issue can turn into a big, expensive problem if ignored. The best approach? Catch it early and take care of it before it spreads. Your home—and your wallet—will be better off in the long run.
Make sure your attic and crawlspace are properly ventilated and insulated
Seal basement and crawlspace floors to keep ground moisture out
Check that flashing is installed correctly around decks, doors, porches, roofs, walls, and windows—water should be directed away from the wood
Keep wood siding, trim, and framing away from constant moisture sources like soil, concrete, or roofing materials
Stay on top of painting and caulking to seal out water
Keep gutters, drains, and downspouts clear so water doesn’t pool where it shouldn’t
And most importantly—don’t ignore signs of dry rot. Even a small spot can turn into a big (and expensive) problem if left untreated. Catch it early, and your home will thank you.
I have dry rot under my siding—why won’t anyone give me a firm bid?
This is a question we hear a lot, and it makes total sense to ask. The truth is, dry rot can be sneaky. It often hides beneath the surface, spreading in ways you can’t see just by looking at the outside of your home. Until we open up the siding and take a look underneath, there’s no way to know exactly how far the damage has gone.
Many factors influence how dry rot spreads—like how long moisture has been present, the type of materials used, how the area was built, and even whether pests have made things worse. That’s why any contractor who offers a firm quote without actually looking inside should raise a red flag.
At KV Construction, we believe in transparency and accuracy. We’ll assess what we can see, explain what might be hidden, and give you a clear understanding of possible outcomes once we start the work. It’s all about giving you the right fix—not just a fast guess.
What is a targeted dry rot repair?
A targeted dry rot repair means we focus only on the areas that actually need fixing. We carefully remove the damaged wood, repair the affected spot, and seamlessly tie it back into the existing structure. It’s a precise, efficient approach that saves you time, money, and stress.
Unfortunately, some contractors may push for full-scale repairs or make assumptions about hidden damage to upsell a bigger, more expensive job. At KV Construction, we don’t believe in scare tactics—we believe in honest, skilled work that solves the problem without overcharging you. If it’s just a small area, we treat it like one.
What is Dry Rot?
Dry rot is one of the most common and damaging issues affecting wood structures here in the Pacific Northwest. It’s caused by a type of fungus that feeds on damp wood, slowly breaking it down from the inside out. You might also hear it called brown rot, wood rot, or even wet rot—but no matter the name, the result is the same: weakened, brittle wood that can crumble in your hands.
What makes dry rot tricky is that it often spreads quietly, hidden behind siding or trim, and by the time you notice it, the damage may already be significant. It can also create conditions for mold and mildew, making things worse over time. And once it starts, it won’t stop on its own—it needs to be fully removed and properly repaired to protect the integrity of your home or building.
Dry Rot
Repair
Windows and
Doors
A window in my house is leaking—does it need to be replaced?
Not necessarily. If the glass and window frame are intact—no cracks or obvious damage—then the leak is probably coming from behind the scenes. Most of the time, water sneaks in due to issues with the flashing or the weather-resistant barrier around the window, not the window itself. The good news? That’s usually fixable without a full window replacement. We’ll inspect the area, find the real source of the leak, and recommend the most practical (and cost-effective) solution.
Will adding a new window to an existing wall weaken my home?
Not at all—as long as it’s done right. When a new window is added, proper framing and a strong header are installed to support the wall and maintain your home’s structural integrity. It’s a common project that, when done by experienced professionals, doesn’t compromise stability. That’s why it’s so important to hire a licensed contractor who knows how to safely and correctly frame and install windows—so you get more light and style without sacrificing strength.
If I have a door leak, does the whole door need to be replaced?
Not always. If water is leaking around your door—especially a wood-framed one—it’s often due to issues with flashing or the weather-resistant barrier behind the siding. When that happens, the moisture can start to damage the door frame over time. In many cases, we can repair or replace just the damaged frame without replacing the entire door. We’ll inspect it carefully and recommend the option that makes the most sense for your home and budget.
My glass windows are fogged up—do they need to be replaced?
Not necessarily. Foggy windows usually mean the seal on the insulated glass unit has failed, letting moisture sneak in between the panes. While it might look like the whole window is ruined, that’s not always the case. In many situations, the foggy glass can be treated or the sealed glass unit can be replaced—without having to replace the entire window frame. It’s a fixable issue, and we’re happy to help you find the most cost-effective solution.
My siding looks great, but the trim around my windows is rotting and leaking—why?
This is a common issue, even when the rest of your siding looks perfectly fine. Window and door trim are especially vulnerable to dry rot because they have flat surfaces where water can collect. If the flashing or weather-resistant barrier (WRB) wasn’t installed properly, moisture can seep in behind the trim and slowly cause damage. Over time, that water finds its way into the structure, leading to rot and leaks. The good news? With the right repairs and proper flashing, we can stop the damage and prevent it from coming back.
My siding looks great, but the trim around my windows is rotting and leaking—why is that?
Even if your siding is in excellent shape, the trim around windows and doors can still be a weak spot. These areas are especially prone to dry rot because they have flat surfaces where water can settle. If the flashing wasn’t installed properly—or if the weather-resistant barrier (WRB) behind the siding wasn’t done right—moisture can sneak in and start damaging the wood underneath. Over time, that leads to rot and water intrusion. It’s a common issue, but with proper repairs and better sealing, we can stop the leaks and protect your home moving forward.
What is a weather-resistant barrier (WRB)?
A weather-resistant barrier, or WRB, is a waterproof layer that sits between your home’s siding and the wooden sheathing underneath. Think of it as your home’s hidden raincoat—it helps block water and moisture from sneaking into the structure where it can cause damage like mold or dry rot. WRBs come in different forms, such as black tar paper, Tyvek, or other waterproof materials. Even though you don’t see it, it’s one of the most important parts of your home’s defense against the elements.
What is flashing, and why is it important?
Flashing is a thin piece of metal—usually aluminum or galvanized steel—that’s installed in key areas of your home to help keep water out. You’ll find it above windows and doors, around hose bibs, and where roofs meet walls or change direction. It may not look like much, but flashing plays a big role in protecting your home from water damage. Without it, rainwater can sneak into the structure, leading to leaks, dry rot, and expensive repairs. It’s one of those small details that makes a big difference in keeping your home dry and strong.
Why is it important to hire a HardieWrap Certified Contractor?
When it comes to protecting your home from water damage, the weather-resistant barrier (WRB) is one of the most important layers—and HardieWrap is one of the best products on the market. But even the best materials won’t do their job if they’re not installed correctly. That’s why hiring a HardieWrap Certified Contractor matters. At KV Construction, we’re certified right here in Washington, which means we’re trained to install HardieWrap products the right way—ensuring your home stays dry, your repairs last, and everything looks clean and professional.
Weather Resistant
Barriers
Lead Paint
Removal
Can I Paint Over Lead-Based Paint with Lead-Free Paint?
If your home was built before 1978, there’s a good chance it may have lead-based paint. You can paint over it with lead-free paint—but there’s a catch. The key is that the existing lead paint must be in good condition and fully intact, with no peeling, chipping, or cracking. In that case, it can be safely encapsulated with a fresh coat of lead-free paint.
However, if the old paint is starting to fail—blistering, flaking, or deteriorating—it may be releasing harmful lead dust into your home. That’s when it becomes a health risk, especially for children and pets, and professional lead removal should be considered.
At KV Construction, we take lead safety seriously. We follow all EPA, RRP, and OSHA guidelines to ensure any work involving lead paint is done properly, safely, and with your family’s health in mind. If you’re unsure about the condition of your paint, let us take a look and help you make the safest choice.
How do I know if my house has lead paint?
If your home was built before 1978, there’s a good chance it may contain lead-based paint, especially on older siding, trim, windows, and doors. That’s the year lead paint was officially banned for residential use in the U.S.
Here are a few ways to check:
Age of the home: If it was built before 1978, lead paint is likely present, especially under newer layers.
Visible layers: If peeling paint reveals multiple layers beneath, it could include older lead-based coatings.
Lead test kits: These are available at most hardware stores and can give you a quick answer.
Professional testing: For the most accurate results, especially if you’re planning renovations, we recommend a certified lead inspection.
At KV Construction, we’re trained to safely handle siding and exterior work involving lead paint. If you’re unsure whether your home has it, we’re here to help guide you through the process safely and in full compliance with EPA standards.
What year did they stop using lead paint in homes?
Lead-based paint was officially banned for residential use in the U.S. in 1978 by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA). Before that, it was commonly used in homes, especially on trim, doors, windows, and siding.
Even today, lead paint remains one of the leading causes of lead poisoning—especially when it starts to deteriorate and create lead-contaminated dust. If your home was built before 1978, there’s a good chance it could still have layers of lead paint underneath newer coats. When in doubt, it’s best to have it checked and handled by professionals who follow EPA safety guidelines—like our team at KV Construction.
What is lead paint?
Lead paint is an older type of paint that contains lead—a toxic metal that can pose serious health risks, especially to young children and pregnant women. It was commonly used in homes before 1978 for its durability and coverage.
The danger comes when the paint starts to deteriorate, chip, or turn into dust. Once inhaled or ingested, lead can affect brain development, cause learning problems, and lead to other long-term health issues. That’s why it’s so important to handle any potential lead paint safely and follow proper removal or encapsulation practices. At KV Construction, we’re trained and certified to deal with lead safely and responsibly.
What is RRP?
RRP stands for Renovation, Repair, and Painting—a set of EPA guidelines designed to protect homeowners when work disturbs lead-based paint. It’s different from full lead abatement, which is a specialized process aimed at permanently removing lead hazards.
RRP applies to common renovation tasks—like siding replacement, window installation, painting, or light remodeling—especially in homes built before 1978. If any of that work slightly disturbs lead paint, even just sanding or scraping, it must follow strict safety procedures to contain lead dust and protect your family.
At KV Construction, we’re fully certified in RRP and follow all EPA guidelines to ensure your project is safe, clean, and compliant from start to finish.
Why is lead paint dangerous?
Lead paint becomes a serious health hazard when it starts to deteriorate. As it chips, cracks, or turns into dust, those tiny particles can be inhaled or accidentally ingested—especially by children playing near windows, floors, or soil around the home.
Once lead enters the body, it can cause long-term damage to the brain, kidneys, nervous system, and other vital organs. It’s especially harmful to young children and pregnant women, as it can impact development and cause serious health issues even at low levels.
That’s why it’s so important to take lead paint seriously. If your home was built before 1978 and you suspect lead paint may be present, it’s best to have it inspected and handled by certified professionals—like the team at KV Construction—who follow all safety regulations to keep your family protected.
